Iceland is a land of extremes. A journey through the countryside may lead to fjords, glaciers, and mountains that hide witches and sorcerers. Or it may embody Reykjavik, the island's capital: a place that seemed nearly overwhelmed with loud American and German tourists, and perhaps almost a foreign country to native Icelanders. Where else can one visit a Chuck Norris grill or buy goofy and historically inaccurate Viking horns? I had been to Iceland before to witness the No